collectors guide: vintage jewelry

It's the ultimate gilt trip: From Bakelite bangles to Trifari crystal broaches, retro gems are suddenly as hot as the stars who wear them. A few pearls of wisdom on how to go for the faux.

 

Remember playing dress-up in all those rhinestone broaches and faux-pearl chokers you borrowed from your mother's jewelry box? Well, now is the time to pull them down from the attic. You might find something as funky as the Pierre Cardin "stethoscope" necklace from the early seventies that Cameron Diaz purchased from Decades Inc. last year. She's just one of the stars-among them Winona Ryder and Tracey Ullman-who have discovered the cachet of retro costume jewelry. And Hollywood isn't the only place where the market is heating up for vintage pieces (usually defined as fine costume jewelry more than 20 years old). On the Internet, there's an increased demand for these collectibles, which, unlike mass-produced pieces, were often handcrafted by a small number of makers such as Miriam Haskell and Coppola & Toppa, who kept quality high and output low. Some pieces are as dazzling as the jewels themselves-necklaces that once cost $50 are now worth 30 times that much, and even Bakelite bangles, which your grandmother bought for $2, can fetch $600. "It makes the stock market look like a weenie roast," jokes Connie De Nave of Connie & Christopher De Nave in New York City. Before you hit the flea markets, you need to know what's worth collecting, how to spot it, and the best places to find it.

 

     Flea markets may be fun, but they're not always the best place to find authentic, high-quality pieces. Buy what you love, but if you're looking to invest, it's better to rely on a reputable dealer. Here, a few worth noting.

     Decades Inc., 8214 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323-655-0223; decadesinc.com

     This groovy boutique specializes in vintage designer jewelry and couture from the sixties and seventies. You can't order online, but Decades will do a search for you if you post a request.

  • Georg Jensen - A student of sculpture, Georg Jensen founded his firm in Copenhagen in 1904 and took silver jewelry in the direction of modern art. After his death in 1935, Jensen's successors, including Henning Koppel, kept his bold vision alive.
  • The look - Striking biomorphic shapes and sleek geometric lines are among the firm's signatures.
  • The mark - Pieces usually bear the mark "Georg Jensen" in capital letters or the initials "GJ." Since 1945, "Georg Jensen" has appeared within an oval dotted border.
  • The price - From about $400 for good wearable collectibles to $4,000 for rarer pieces.

Clockwise from bottom: silver bracelet, $2,750; from Terry Rodgers & Melody. Silver pendant, $1,200, and silver earrings, $250; both from Decades Inc.

 
Coppola & Toppo - Founded in the late forties by designer Lyda Coppola Toppo and her brother Bruno Coppola, this firm produced seasonal collections for fashion houses such as Dior, Valentino and Pucci - as well as its own line - until 1986

The look - Signature designs included multi-strand necklaces in glass and plastic, along with dangling earrings with huge hoops.

The mark - "Made in Italy" appeared on pieces designed for fashion houses. Other designs bear the name of Lyda Coppola Toppo's dog, Miky.

The price - Earrings go for around $250; a necklace can command $2,500.

From top: plastic-bead necklace, $850, and matching dangly earrings, $450; from Decades Inc., 323-655-0223